How to Choose the Right Size Stockings

Finding the right size stockings can make all the difference to both comfort and style. Whether you’re recreating a glamorous 1950s look or slipping into modern hosiery, the fit of your stockings affects how they look, how they feel, and how long they last. Stockings that are too small may ladder or feel restrictive, while those too large can wrinkle and slip. Understanding the difference between vintage and modern sizing helps ensure your stockings sit perfectly every time.

Vintage Stocking Sizing

Before tights became mainstream in the 1960s, stockings were sized very differently from the way we’re used to today. Vintage-style ‘Nylons’ are usually sized by foot and leg length rather than dress size, and the measurement is often given in inches. For example, you might see a stocking marked 9½ or 10½, which refers to the foot length from heel to toe.

Because these sizes don’t always account for leg width or your height, women often choose stockings based on shoe size and then try to adjust with suspender clips to keep them taut. This can make them pretty uncomfortable if too short and they will not sit high on the thigh as they should. Stockings were also cut with far less stretch than most modern hosiery, meaning an exact size was far more important — too small, and the Nylons simply wouldn’t fit.

RHT Stockings and How They Fit

One style worth mentioning is RHT stockings (Reinforced Heel and Toe), which became especially popular in the 1940s and 50s. These stockings are usually seamless, with a reinforced heel and toe to give extra strength where wear happens most. In terms of fit, RHTs combine the elegance of vintage hosiery with the practicality of modern manufacturing.

They don’t have a back seam to keep straight, making them slightly more forgiving in sizing, but like other vintage-inspired stockings, they are less stretchy than modern tights.

This means choosing the right size is still important — select according to foot length and leg height for the smoothest, most authentic fit.

Modern Stocking Sizing

Today’s stockings are generally more forgiving, thanks to the addition of elastane (spandex) in the weave. Most brands size stockings by dress size, height, or a small/medium/large scale rather than by inch measurements. Some even combine height and weight on a grid chart, making it easier to choose.

This flexibility means modern stockings stretch to accommodate different body shapes, giving you more freedom to choose based on your overall size rather than exact foot length. For everyday wear, this makes modern hosiery practical, comfortable, and accessible to a wider range of figures.

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Key Differences Between Vintage and Modern Sizing

Vintage: Foot-length based (e.g., size 9½), limited stretch, exact fit required.
Modern: Dress size/height/weight based, includes stretch, more adaptable to different body shapes.
Fit: Vintage stockings often require a precise suspender fit to keep them smooth, while modern stockings cling more naturally.
Look: Vintage styles sit snug and elegant but demand the right size; modern styles are easier to wear but may not achieve quite the same structured silhouette.

How to Choose the Right Size for You

For Vintage or Reproduction Stockings:
Check the inch measurement and match it to your shoe size.
Consider your leg length — if you are tall, you may need a larger size for extra length.
Always pair with a suspender belt that holds them evenly to avoid sagging.
For Modern Stockings:
Use the brand’s size chart (usually based on height and dress size).
If you’re between sizes, it’s often better to size up for comfort.
Look for styles with reinforced toes and heels if you want the authentic vintage look with modern stretch.

Choosing the right size stockings is about more than just numbers — it’s about comfort, confidence, and style. Vintage sizing requires more precision, while modern hosiery is designed with flexibility in mind. Whether you’re dressing for everyday elegance or recreating a 1950s pinup look, taking the time to find your perfect fit ensures your stockings enhance your outfit beautifully.